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Winterizing Your Home 
Tuesday, 19 January 2010

The fall season, just when the summer's up and all the getaways are done, is the best time to park your RV and prepare it for hibernation during winter. Although you can pay someone to do it for you, winterizing your RV on your own is quite a satisfying adventure. Sure, it would entail some amount of hard work, but it guarantees you a hands-on maintenance and, of course, savings.

 

If this is your first time winterizing, don't be overwhelmed by the task. Think of it as a routine RV check up. To help you, here's an RV winterizing guideline.

 

1. Mind the plumbing. A great part of the RV winterizing tasks deals with preventing winter-frozen water lines and pipes, but all these are manageable. First, drain the fresh water tank by opening the faucets until all water comes out. Do the same to the showers, toilet tanks, and bowls. You can use an air compressor to help you siphon out all the water. Then, by-pass your water heater using a by-pass kit provided by the RV manufacturer. To prevent the remaining water from freezing, treat it with RV antifreeze solution.

 

Pump the antifreeze solution into the water system using a pump conversion kit, which uses a tube that transports the solution from its container into the water system. Then, check if the solution has been flushed into the water system by opening one faucet at a time. If the faucet releases something pink (the color of antifreeze solution), it means the antifreeze solution has made its way into the water system. See if all the faucets, showers, and toilet sinks and bowls do the same. Finally, pour around four to five ounces of antifreeze into the drains.

 

2. Clean the RV. All consumable items?food, beverages, medicines, and the likes?should be disposed of. Remember, rodents are likely to be looking for a snug place to spend the winter, and all these items attract them to your RV. You don't want your RV to be their choice of home because, as you know, rodents have a notorious reputation of messing up any place they end up living in. To keep them out and all the other nasty insects, close every tiny hole they may use to get through with brass wool or aluminum.

 

3. Turn off all appliances. The refrigerator, particularly, should be thoroughly cleaned. Get rid of all its contents and keep it open to allow air circulation and prevent it from stinking. The air conditioner is also another concern. Clean before shutting it down for the winter and cover it with plastic.

 

4. Have a moisture control at hand. Some RV owners use chemical absorbents inside the RV to prevent moisture and consequently the development of mold and mildew. Others, meanwhile, find charcoal as effective.

 

5. Cover the RV. This will protect the RV from snow and water. But make sure to use the cover that doesn't trap moisture inside. Some advise getting a cover made of breathable materials.

  

6. Have a double check-up. Even if you think you've done all you need to do in winterizing your RV, it doesn't hurt to re-check things. See if there is an unplugged appliance, if one window is open, if a light is turned on, etc. This can assure you that there'll be no heartbreaking and unnecessary surprises waiting for you come springtime.

POSTED BY: Rich Lanning AT 10:01 pm   |  Permalink   |  0 Comments  |  E-mail this
Tuesday, 19 January 2010

Just because you have done the last of your autumn lawn task doesn't mean you are completely done; you still have to winterize your lawn mower in time for the cold months. Winterizing a lawn mower means prepping it up for the season's storage. When you properly winterize your lawn mower, you can save hundreds of dollars from costly repairs and you can even prolong the years of your equipment.

 

Here's a quick guide on winterizing your lawn mower. Follow them carefully to have a competently geared up lawn mower come springtime.

 

Empty the gas tank. This will prevent remaining gas from clogging your carburetor. And you don't want that to happen because it will mean spending hundreds of dollars for repairs. So before you store your lawn mower for winter, turn on the mower until it eats up all the remaining gas and stops on its own. Restart the engine. If the lawn mower doesn't start, you have successfully drained the gas tank.

 

Change oil. Refill your oil tank with fresh oil, and make sure the amount is sufficient: not too much, not too little. Dispose of the old oil properly as described by hazardous waste management policies in your area. Do not pour it down the sink, sewer, or ground. If you can, find gas stations in your area that collect old oil for proper waste disposal.

 

Clean or change the air filter. You can clean the air filter if it is made of plastic, but buy replacements for filters made of paper. It is recommended to replace air filters at least once during the mowing season.

 

Remove the spark plug. Then, pour lubricating oil through the plug hole and crank the engine a number of times to distribute the oil. Now, reinstall the plug. If your spark plug, however, is quite old, you need to buy a replacement. You know you need to replace it if the lawn mower reaches a hundred hours of use.

 

Clean the undersides. Grass clippings and other foreign materials may have stuck between blades, so scrape them off to prevent rusting. You can also hose them down for easy dislodging. Scrub the undersides and the surface area to remove rusts using a steel wool. To remove greasy materials, use warm and soapy water. Allow the lawn mower to dry before storing. Remember to wear gloves when cleaning the lawn mower to prevent hand injuries.

 

Sharpen the blades. Although you can have them sharpened before re-using, it is better to sharpen them during winterization to save some time. You can either sharpen the blades on your own or send them to a professional. Apply protective oil to keep the blades from rusting during the cold months.

 

Store the lawn mower in a secure place. You can keep it in your garage or basement, or wherever it is safe. Cover it with plastic and place mothballs near the lawn mower, so no rodents will take residence in it. Properly winterizing a lawn mower assures you that you have something to work with come spring.

POSTED BY: Rich Lanning AT 09:58 pm   |  Permalink   |  0 Comments  |  E-mail this
Tuesday, 19 January 2010

You have invested money in building swimming pool and it has given you so much pleasure. As the season begins to get colder, you have to prepare the pool to make sure that it won't be damaged during the season change. For this purpose, you will gain lots of insights from gathering information about ways on winterizing swimming pools.

 

As the summer bids adieu, you must also begin saying goodbye to your pool. Here are the processes that must be followed to make sure that the pool will be ready for the colder season and will also at its tip-top shape come summertime.

 

1. Check the pH level of the water. This must be about 7.5 and if the results show otherwise, put dry acid on the water. Check the chlorine and use a product that is ideal for the situation to protect the pool from developing algae come winter months.

 

2. When the cold months come in, run the pump six hours each day. This action will also prevent algae from developing while the pool is not in use. Any kinds of leaks should be sealed. Turn off the valve of the skimmer and allow the water to drain until it is about six inches below the bottom of the skimmer. This is the preferred amount of water on the pool.

 

3. Before you store the summer cover, if ever you have used one, clean it through pressure washer or simply with fresh water. Keep it at a dry area and get the winter cover. When placing this on the pool, apply enough tension on the cover to prevent anything from getting beneath it once it is in place. This must be checked several days in a week to be certain that it is still tight.

 

Tell everybody about the cover. For everyone's safety, tell them that even pets are not allowed to go near the pool area. The cover may be able to protect the pool, but it wasn't designed to protect anyone or anything that may accidentally slip atop the material.

 

4. After you are done with the abovementioned procedures, it is time to drain excess water from the equipment. Water needs to be drained from the pump, heater and filter. This can be easily done by pulling the drain plug that can be found at the bottom. This part makes the whole process a lot easier.

 

Even if you are stuck with lots of things that are crying for your attention in preparation for the coming season, you should never forget to drain the pool from water. During winter, the water will freeze inside the area that may result to permanent damage that you certainly wouldn't want to happen.

 

When you are done with all these steps on winterizing your swimming pool, you can proceed with other tasks. But you have to check on the pool after several days to see if everything is okay and holding up or you need to fix some areas to be very certain that everything is going to be fine.

POSTED BY: Rich Lanning AT 09:56 pm   |  Permalink   |  0 Comments  |  E-mail this
Tuesday, 19 January 2010

Unlike your home and vehicle which you could see and check everyday during winter, boats are harder to check.  Aside from that, it is important to winterize your boat properly to ensure better performance and longer life.  Insurance policies may not cover damages caused by neglect or improper boat maintenance.  When winterizing, you start by removing your boat from the water and putting it in a covered, dry place.  Boats left in the open during winter would eventually have problems.  Heavy snow can force the scuppers, thru-hull fittings and event the gunnels. 

 

When winterizing your boat, always check its manual. Since the steps and recommendations from the manufacturer about winterization is already stated there.  You could also get somebody who is experienced with winterizing boats, especially if you are not completely confident with your skills or if it is your first time to own a boat.

 

Here are things that you would need to keep in mind when winterizing a boat:

 

* Keep the fuel tank full.  This would ensure that there is just a small space for it to expand. Condensation could cause the fuel to expand and lead to corrosion and clogging.

 

* Protect your engine.  Run the engine before changing the oil.  Warm oil will make it easier for the impurities to be removed or drained.  Change the oil filters.  During cold season, the oil would settle on the bottom of the engine block.  This may expose other parts of the engine to humidity and corrosion.  To avoid this, you could spray fogging oil and removing spark plugs.

 

* Outboard engines should be washed with soap and water.  Then drain the water from the engine.  In addition, remove all fuel from the carburetor. 

 

* Check the propeller whether it may need repairs.  You could have them repaired during the winterization process.

 

* Clean both the interior and exterior of the boat.  After cleaning the exterior, add some polish on the surface.  This would protect the boat from dirt and dust.

 

* Drain all the water tanks.   You may also add non-toxic antifreeze into the water system. 

 

Aside from tanks, water should also be drained from the sea strainer.  Most of the times, the seawater strainer is not relieved of any water.  This could damage the seal and will only show its damage when spring comes and bilges is flooded.  Also remove any important belongings inside your boa, like valuables, fire extinguishers, flares, fenders and other valuables and electronics.   You could have a dehumidifier inside the boat to make sure that mildew will not invade your boat's interior.

 

Where you keep your boat during the winter is also a factor.  It is important to keep your boat covered.  Usually, canvass boat covers about 8 to 10 ounces of canvass would be enough.  The bat should also be under covered to protect it against dust, dirt, and pests.  There are also boat owners who consider doing the shrink-wrapping of a boat. You could always purchase do-it-yourself kits to safeguard or when winterizing your boat.

POSTED BY: Rich Lanning AT 09:47 pm   |  Permalink   |  0 Comments  |  E-mail this
Tuesday, 19 January 2010

Planning ways on how to go about winterizing your homes can be done anytime. It is better to be prepared for just about anything so no matter what happens in the coming months, you can take a look at your list come wintertime. If you intend to start executing the plans, the best time for this is at the fall Equinox. At this time of the year, the temperature is beginning to decrease that your house needs to be maintained so that it would be ready for the next season.

 

How do you go about preparing house for winter? Here are some tips that can help you with the task at hand.

 

1. First up, you should call an HVAC professional to inspect the heating system. They will do vital furnace inspection as well as clean the ducts. You should have stock of furnace filters with you because this must be changed every month. The furnace must be clear of all flammable materials that may cause other risks and dangers. It will be better if you can avail the kind of thermostat that is programmable. If you are utilizing a hot-water radiator at home, the valves should be opened slightly and close immediately when water appears.

 

2. Check for crevice cracks at the exterior of your home. Make sure that there are no exposed entry points on the pipes. If you found anything cracks or holes, seal these fast.

 

3. For the doors, you can use weather stripping to prevent cold air from coming inside the house. To achieve the same for windows, these must be caulked. If the house has a basement, you can protect the window wells by covering these with plastic shields. It's time to keep the summer screens for later use and get glass replacements installed. You can also put storm windows if you have these or you simply want to.

 

4. The fireplace must be ready for the coming season. Put a cap at the top of the chimney so that you can keep away birds and rodents. If you haven't cleaned the chimney for quite a while, call someone to remove creosote and soot from this part. You also have to stock up chopped wood or firewood that should be placed in dry place. Check the damper of the fireplace if this has still the right kind of closing and opening.

 

5. If the weather at your area usually goes lower than 32 degrees during winter, you should consider adding insulation at the attic. Through this, warm air will be prevented from creeping at the roof that might lead to ice dams. While at the roof, you must inspect worn out tiles and roof shingles and replace materials while you still have time. You must be very sure that water cannot enter your house through the roof. Gutters should also be cleaned from any kind of debris.

 

There are many more steps that you should consider in winterizing your house. The important thing at this point is to make sure that you will feel comfortable and safe inside even when the temperature hit the lows once the winter season starts.

POSTED BY: Rich Lanning AT 09:45 pm   |  Permalink   |  0 Comments  |  E-mail this
Tuesday, 19 January 2010

Winterizing or preparing for the winter would help preserve your property and even save some energy or fuel.  For example, if you are selling your home then you would need to winterize it.  Winterizing your home will protect your investment and at the same time keep everything it good condition. 

 

When winterizing your home you could get a professional to do it.  There would be instances when you will need a plumber, an electrician or a contractor.  But there could also be instances when you could do your own winterizing. 

 

During winter, homeowners would often experience pipes freezing and bursting.  To prevent pipes from freezing, faucets are often left to drip away the excess water.  However, this may be expensive on the long run.  Simple pipe insulation will do the work.  All you have to do is surround your pipes with this insulation.  This is ideal for outdoor pipes and faucets, and those located under your house.

 

Weather stripping which is fit around doors could also help in sealing your doorway to prevent cold air from seeping it and heated air going out.  If storm windows are too expensive for you, then you could use window insulation kit which is more affordable.  You could even use this with a storm window for additional insulation.

 

Vents and ducts would also need some inspection and at the same time some conditioning.  Heated air gets lost with misaligned air ducts.  You could easily repair it yourself if the misalignment is just minimal.  However, if the damage is extensive then you would need to have an air conditioning expert to check the duct work for you.

 

Most would think that winterizing would just involve water systems and plumbing.  Actually, it would even involve roof and gutter cleaning.  If a home would be left for a long time during winter or up for sale, then having the roof inspected before winter is important.  Cleaning the gutters and the roof would prevent too much ice forming in them resulting to serious damage on the long run.

 

Aside from making sure that heated air would not escape, you do all of these to watch that energy bill.  Before you experience the coldest climate, you may need to make all the necessary repairs. Buying equipment early could actually allow you to buy the items in a lower price.  When a lot of people are buying these things you will need at home for the winterization process, there is a tendency to see an increase in price.

 

If you will be leaving your home for a long time or left vacant because you are selling it, then you would need somebody to check on it, once in a while.  Even if the place has been winterized, it is still important to have somebody check on any damages.  Some realtors would often visit check houses every week or two during winter. 

 

Even if you will only be going away for a few weeks time, it would still mean a lot to get somebody to baby-sit your home.  You could ask them to do daily visits, even give them permission to call on repairs in case of emergency and provide information about service companies that could be called in case the need arises. Remember that winterizing is not an assurance that nothing will happen to your home or property over the winter, but it would protect your property from being completely unusable after the cold climate.

POSTED BY: Rich Lanning AT 09:43 pm   |  Permalink   |  0 Comments  |  E-mail this
Tuesday, 19 January 2010

Getting ready for winter also means getting your car ready for the icy and snowy roads. Doing so lessens the possibilities of winter road accidents and other mishaps. After all, you don't want getting stuck up in the middle of nowhere, with your engine coming to a halt, or your tires losing traction, or your wiper blades snapping into pieces down the road. Winterizing your car early on saves you your life, especially so if you live in an area where snow is non-stop.

 

Here are six easy steps to winterize your car. Do them as early as you can to get your car ready to face the toughest winter conditions.

 

1. Mind your tires. First off, check the tire pressure. As the temperature gets colder, tire pressure decreases. Generally, a temperature drop by 10ºF causes a pound per square inch loss in tire pressure. Inflate your car if needed, as deflated tires have significantly reduced traction and can be quite dangerous on icy and wet roads. To better ensure safety, you can choose to use snow tires during winter months, which are more equipped to handle adverse winter road conditions since they have better traction and control.

 

2. Inspect windshield wipers. Replace them if yours are more than a year, because if they are too old, chances are they won't stand against the snow, and, as you know, it is seriously dangerous if the wiper blades split and break just when you are driving in the middle of a blizzard. Also, use windshield washer fluid in place of water to break the snow on the windshield. Before winter sets in, make sure your wipers are ready to do what they were created for: clear your windshield and give you a good view. 

 

3. Check your oil. Oil works to lubricate the engine, but if it is too cold, oil thickens, which may be bad for the engine. Therefore, use the type of oil with less viscosity or thickness during winter months. You can check your owner's manual to figure what type of oil your car needs during this season.

 

4.  Examine your heater and defroster. Your heater functions to keep you warm and snug when you are driving, while the defroster makes sure that no moist fogs up the windshield. Make sure these two are working properly, as it is quite hard to drive while shaking in cold and with moist blocking your view.

 

5. Inspect your car battery. Usually batteries can last three to five years. If your battery is past that frame, it is time for a replacement. If it is not, you only need to do a thorough inspection on your battery. See if there are corrosions on the cables and other areas. Also, check if the battery fluid runs low, and if it does, carefully add distilled water onto it. Consult a car mechanic should you need more guidance in your battery inspection.

 

6. Keep an emergency kit. When winterizing your car, organize an emergency kit, which can have flashlights, bottles of oil and washer fluid, ice scraper, gloves, blanket, and every other tool and item that will keep you safe during your winter drive. Having an emergency kit is as equally important as checking all car parts.

POSTED BY: Rich Lanning AT 09:41 pm   |  Permalink   |  0 Comments  |  E-mail this
Tuesday, 19 January 2010

Frozen, burst water pipes are a nightmare. Not only do they cause flooding and other serious water problems, but they also leave structural damages on the flooring, basement, and some parts of the house. Winter, by all means, is not friendly to plumbing and pipes, and if they are not winterized, you are likely to spend some amount for costly repairs. Save your pipes from winter damages, and do the following steps in winterizing water pipes.

 

1. Shut off the water system if you are leaving the house for a while. Turn on the indoor faucets and showers to drain. Then, remove water from toilet tanks. You can use an air compressor to siphon all remaining water from the lines. Scoop out water from toilet bowls, and add antifreeze solution to the residual water. Next, focus on the outside plumbing. Turn off the shut-off vent, which in some houses are located in the basement, and turn on the outdoor faucets to drain. When the faucets are all on, go back to the vent and turn the plug to drain the remaining water. Do not forget to drain the in-ground sprinkler as well. When you are sure there is no longer water that can possibly freeze and burst the pipes, turn the plug back and turn off all the faucets.

 

2. Insulate water pipes, especially those that are exposed and are in unheated areas (garage, basement, and crawl spaces). You can use insulating tape, a heat-producing electrical cord, to cover the pipes. Use the same material to wrap outdoor faucets. In place of insulating tape, you can use fiberglass insulation, molded foam rubber sleeves, rags, or plastic.

 

3. Let the faucet on and allow water to run. Do this particularly when the temperature hits below freezing point. Although this can add to your water bill, you can reduce the likelihood of having frozen pipes by keeping the water moving. No need for a torrential stream; tiny water drips are sufficient.

 

4. Replace or seal broken pipes early on. Nothing guarantees winter freeze damage better than cracked and worn out pipes, so do an early inspection. Also, make sure to caulk around the pipes to prevent leaks.

 

5. Regularly monitor your water flow. In case, there is no water in some parts of the house, check if there is a frozen pipe anywhere in your basement, in the crawl space, or under the kitchen and bathroom cabinets. When you have located the frozen pipe, use a hair dyer to blow heat to the pipe. Do not use an open flame. If there is no water in the entire house, call a plumber to spot leaks and frozen pipes in your city water service.

 

Do not overlook the pipes. Just as you need winter coats and mittens to survive the winter, your pipes need to be prepared for the coming cold. Whether it is your weekend home or main house, make sure to winterize your water pipes. For more help in winterizing water pipes, contact your trusty plumber.

POSTED BY: Rich Lanning AT 09:38 pm   |  Permalink   |  0 Comments  |  E-mail this
Tuesday, 19 January 2010

Winter is not the best time for your pool, so before the snowy season comes in with full force, you should prepare your pool for the tough weather. Winterizing your pool guarantees you that it would survive the season and be spared from possible winter damages.

 

Pools differ from one another that is why it is best to consult your pool manufacturer about properly winterizing your pool. But although that's the case, there are general guidelines in winterizing pools, which would give you a good head start. Here's a few of them:

 

1. Remove any deck equipment. This includes ladders, diving boards, rails, and slides. Store them in places where they will be secure and away from the harsh weather.

 

2. Check the water's chemical balance. The pH level should be anywhere between 7.2 to 7.6; alkalinity, 80 to 120 ppm; and calcium hardness, 180 to 220 ppm. If the water chemistry is unbalanced, you run the risk of damaging the pool surface. Chemical winterizing kits, which contain the necessary chemical treatments, are available from pool supply stores. Use them as instructed in the product label.

 

3. Blow out the water from pumping, heating, and filtering systems. You can use a shop vac or air compressor to do this job. Make sure all water comes out. By draining these systems, you avoid the possibility of freezing water and cracking the lines.

 

4. Lower the water level. This is necessary if your pool has tile liner, because when the water expands, it can push outward and may crack the tile. Keep the water 4 to 6 inches below the skimmer. However, if you have drained your underground pipes and are using gizmos to plug the skimmer, there is no need to lower the water lever. Remember, the higher the water, the better for the pool to hold the cover.

 

5. Clean the pool. Remove leaves and other debris using a filter or net. Some owners prefer not to clean the pool, especially if there's only a few floating debris, and clean it only upon opening the pool in the spring. That would be a logical choice since there is always the possibility of debris getting their way into the pool. However, it is still advisable to clean the pool before closing it for winter to ensure you of clean water come spring.

 

6. Cover the pool. This will keep debris out of the pool and prevent algae build-up. Pool covers come in different varieties and likewise offer various advantages and disadvantages. Regardless, choose the cover that provides the most protection and fits your pool the best. When installing the cover, make sure the wire is tight enough, so no amount of wind can topple off the cover and expose your pool. To provide support, you can use air pillow or any other floating devices. These devices absorb ice expansion in the pool and prevent the pool sides from cracking. 

 

Be extra careful when winterizing your pool. If you have any questions, contact your pool manufacturer or any pool expert. Don't take chances, as repairs are painfully costly.

POSTED BY: Rich Lanning AT 09:36 pm   |  Permalink   |  0 Comments  |  E-mail this
Tuesday, 12 January 2010

As the boating season comes to a halt, your top concern would be preparing your boat for winter storage. You have to make sure it is safe and snug all through winter and can survive the cold weather. Hiring a professional to winterize your boat is a good option, although you can do the job on your own. Along with the manufacturer's recommendations, the following guidelines can help you through winterizing your boat.

 

Clean the boat's interior.

 

This means taking the mess off the carpet, getting rid of the food items from the refrigerator, dusting the lockers and cabinets, airing out the cushions, etc. Clear the interior as thoroughly as possible. Take note of the damages and do arrangements to have the necessary replacements. Also, provide proper boat ventilation to avoid trapping moisture inside, which invites the growth of mold and mildew. Consider using mildew spray and dehumidifiers as well. 

 

Fill the fuel tank and add fuel stabilizer.

 

Doing so will prevent condensation and oxidation that may work against the engine. After adding stabilizer, run the motor up until the stabilizer has penetrated the engine.

 

Change the oil.

 

Drain the old oil properly and replace it with fresh oil. Start the engine to allow the oil to circulate and penetrate the system. Changing oil is necessary to prevent corrosion that results in engine defects. Do not forget to change the oil filter as well.

 

Hose the engine with fresh water.

 

Then, allow the engine to drain. Make sure the engine is completely drained of water because a small amount of residual water will tend to freeze and result in serious damages. To prevent the build-up of rust and corrosion, spray fogging oil onto the engine. Start by running the engine and shutting down the fuel supply. As soon as the engine stops on its own, take out the spark plugs and spray fogging oil onto the cylinders.

 

Take a good look at the hull.

 

If you find gel coat blisters, treat them with special epoxy. Also, check the bottom of the boat and scrape off barnacles. You can pressure-wash the bottom to remove tough dirt and slime. Do the necessary painting and waxing to restore the boat's exterior appeal.

 

Charge the batteries.

 

Disconnect the batteries, add distilled water, and charge them at home. Some boat experts advise charging the batteries after every 30 to 60 days.

 

Choose the best storage method for your boat.

 

You have three options: backyard storage, indoor storage, or boatyard shrink-wrapping. Backyard storage is a convenient and practical approach. Keeping the boat in your yard only requires a boat cover, which should be sturdy and made of breathable materials to discourage moisture and growth of mold and mildew. Indoor storage, on the other hand, means keeping your boat in a paid facility. This can be a bit costly, but it guarantees that your boat is safe and protected from winter elements.

 

The final option is shrink-wrapping your boat. After winterizing your boat, you can either have a boatyard personnel shrink-wrap your boat or buy a kit and do it on your own, after which the boat is placed in a boatyard to spend the winter.

POSTED BY: Rich Lanning AT 10:38 pm   |  Permalink   |  0 Comments  |  E-mail this

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Wymore, NE  68466
Phone: (785)268-0848

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